Chemical Permeation Enhancers for Topically-Applied Vitamin C and Its Derivatives: A Systematic Review

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Lord Sam Liston, Precious Lorraine Rivas, Pajaree Sakdiset, Gerard Lee See, Florencio Arce

2022 Cosmetics Vol. 9 Issue 4 Review Cited by 17 Quartile

Abstract

This paper reports the permeation-enhancing properties and safety of different chemical permeation enhancers (CPEs) on the topical delivery of vitamin C (VC) and its derivatives. A literature search using search keywords or phrases was done in PubMed®, ScienceDirect, and MEDLINE databases. The calculated Log P (cLog P) values were referenced from PubChem and the dermal LD50 values were referenced from safety data sheets. Thirteen studies described the permeation-enhancing activity of 18 identified CPEs in the topical delivery of VC. Correlation analysis between ER and cLog P values for porcine (r = 0.114) and rabbit (r = 0.471) showed weak and moderate positive correlation, while mouse (r = −0.135), and reconstructed human epidermis (r = −0.438) had a negative correlation. The majority (n = 17) of the CPEs belonged to Category 5 of the Globally Harmonized System of Classification or low toxicity hazard. CPEs alone or in combination enhanced permeation (ER = 0.198–106.57) of VC in topical formulations. The combination of isopropyl myristate, sorbitan monolaurate, and polyoxyethylene 80 as CPEs for VC resulted in the highest permeation enhancement ratio. © 2022 by the authors.

Affiliations

Department of Pharmacy, School of Health Care Professions, University of San Carlos, Cebu City, 6000, Philippines; Center for Drug and Cosmetics Excellence, School of Pharmacy, Walailak University, Nakhon Si Thammarat, Thasala, 80161, Thailand; Pharmaceutical Research and Drug Development Laboratories, Department of Pharmacy, School of Health Care Professions, University of San Carlos, Cebu City, 6000, Philippines; Pharmaceutical Sciences Division, National Research Council of the Philippines, Taguig City, 1631, Philippines